Question 1

How big of a septic system do I need?

Accepted Answer

It's sized by the number of bedrooms in the house, not the square footage — a system handles the people who live there and the water they use. The soil sets the field size. We size the system to your house and your ground, not to a guess.

Question 2

Does my county require a permit for a septic system?

Accepted Answer

Every county in this area requires a permit and an inspection for a new septic system, and most require a soil evaluation or a perk test first. We handle the dig and the install; the county approves the design and inspects. We'll tell you what your county needs.

Question 3

What's the difference between a conventional field and a mound system?

Accepted Answer

A conventional lateral field sits in the ground where the soil drains well. A mound system is built above grade and filled with sand when the soil is too tight, too wet, or the water table is too high to treat effluent in the ground. The soil decides which one you need.

Question 4

How deep does the septic tank go?

Accepted Answer

Deep enough to set the inlet below the house's sewer line and below frost — usually a few feet of cover over the top of the tank. The exact depth depends on your house's line and the site. We set it to the right depth for your system.

Question 5

Do I need to do anything to maintain the system?

Accepted Answer

Pump the tank every few years, keep water off the field, don't drive over it, and don't plant trees on it. We walk you through the basics before we leave. A maintained system lasts a long time; a neglected one fails early.

Question 6

My drains are backing up — is it the septic system?

Accepted Answer

It might be. A backup can be a clog in the house line, a tank that needs pumping, or a field that's stopped taking water. We diagnose before we dig — we open the tank and check the line to find which one it is before we touch anything.

Question 7

The ground over my lateral field is soggy. What does that mean?

Accepted Answer

It usually means the field isn't percolating — the soil has sealed up, the lines are clogged, or the water table is too high. A soggy field often has to be replaced, sometimes in a new spot because the old soil is done treating effluent.

Question 8

Can a septic field be repaired, or does it have to be replaced?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes a field can be rehabilitated if the failure is a clog or a broken line. If the soil itself has sealed or the field is just used up, it has to be replaced. We diagnose first and tell you which one you've got.

Question 9

How fast can you get out to look at a failed septic?

Accepted Answer

We answer the phone during business hours and get back to every message the same working day. If your line is backing up or your septic has failed, call us — we'll tell you straight away when we can be there.

Question 10

Will my county need to approve a septic repair?

Accepted Answer

A full field replacement usually needs a permit and an inspection, same as a new system, and the new field has to meet current code. A simple line or tank repair may not. We'll tell you what your county requires when we see the job.

Question 11

What kind of pipe do you use for a sewer line?

Accepted Answer

Solid PVC sewer pipe with glued joints is the standard — it's durable, roots have a hard time getting into clean joints, and it holds its grade. Your plumber sets the exact pipe and the fittings; we cut the trench and handle the backfill.

Question 12

How deep does a sewer line need to be?

Accepted Answer

Deep enough to keep a steady downhill grade from the house to the tank or main and below frost — often 3 to 4 feet or more depending on the run and the frost line. The grade matters more than the depth — too little slope and it clogs.

Question 13

Can you replace a sewer line under my driveway?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we cut the trench through the drive, shore or plate across it, and compact the backfill in lifts so the drive doesn't settle. We can resurface the cut afterward. A line under a drive costs more than one across open ground.

Question 14

My old sewer line is clay tile. Should I replace it?

Accepted Answer

Clay tile cracks over time and roots get into the joints. If your line is backing up or has root intrusion, replacement with solid PVC is usually the long-term fix. We dig it out and tie the new line in at the house and the tank or main.

Question 15

Do you do the plumbing or just the dig?

Accepted Answer

We handle the dig, the trench, the grade, and the backfill. Your plumber sets the pipe and the tie-ins. We coordinate with them so the trench is ready when they are and the line goes in clean.

Question 16

What's the difference between open trench and trenchless sewer line replacement?

Accepted Answer

Open trench cuts a ditch the whole length of the run so we can see the bottom and hold the grade. Trenchless methods like pipe bursting or directional boring pull a new line through without opening the whole run. Trenchless saves the surface above the line but costs more and needs the right ground. We'll tell you which makes sense for your run.

Question 17

How do I know if my sewer line needs replacing or just a repair?

Accepted Answer

If it's one clean break or one bad joint, a spot repair holds. If you're patching it repeatedly, a camera shows roots through every joint, or the line is orangeburg and deforming, it's done and the run needs replacing. We look at the line and tell you straight which one you've got.

Question 18

Will my yard be a mess after you replace the line?

Accepted Answer

We backfill in lifts and compact, shape the surface to grade, and leave it ready for seed or sod. On a drive we re-rock or cut and patch the pavement. We haul off the old pipe and the debris. You're left with a working line and a yard that doesn't look like a trench ran through it.

Question 19

How do you find where a sewer line is broken?

Accepted Answer

Your plumber can run a camera and locate the spot, or we dig to the likely failure based on where the backup is. Once we know where it is and what it is, we dig the section and fix it.

Question 20

Will a sewer line repair last, or will it break again?

Accepted Answer

If the line is PVC and one joint failed, a clean repair lasts. If the line is old clay tile with roots through every joint, a spot fix won't hold and the run needs replacing. We tell you what we find so you're not paying to patch a line that's done.

Question 21

Can you fix a sewer line under my driveway?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we cut through the drive, fix the line, and compact the backfill so the drive doesn't settle. We can resurface the cut. A repair under a drive costs more than one in open ground.

Question 22

Roots keep clogging my sewer line. What do I do?

Accepted Answer

Roots get into the joints of older lines and keep coming back as long as the tree's there. The options are replacing the line with solid PVC, pruning the roots on a schedule, or removing the tree. We talk through what makes sense for your situation.

Question 23

Do you do the plumbing or just the dig?

Accepted Answer

We handle the dig, the exposure, and the backfill. Your plumber does the pipe repair and the tie-ins. We coordinate so the fix goes in clean and the trench is ready for them.

Question 24

How deep should a water line be in Kansas?

Accepted Answer

Below frost — usually 36 to 42 inches, deeper on an exposed run or where the ground freezes hard. A line that's too shallow will freeze and split. We cut to the depth your area and your line call for.

Question 25

My water line froze. Can you fix it?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we dig the break, fix the split, and get the line deep enough or drained back so it doesn't freeze again. If the line was just too shallow, the fix is a deeper trench or a drain-back setup, not just a patch.

Question 26

Can you run a water line out to my barn or cattle waterer?

Accepted Answer

That's a common rural job. We trench the line out, set a hydrant that drains back so the standing water doesn't freeze, and get water to the tank. The depth and the drain-back matter for getting a livestock line through the winter.

Question 27

Do you connect to the rural water district tap?

Accepted Answer

We trench to the district's tap and set the line from there. We coordinate with the rural water district on the meter and the connection requirements — they have their own specs for the tap.

Question 28

Do you do the plumbing or just the dig?

Accepted Answer

We handle the trench, the pipe, and the connections. For a complex indoor tie-in we'll work with your plumber. We pressure-test the line before we leave so you know it holds.

Question 29

How deep can you dig?

Accepted Answer

As deep as the job needs and the ground allows. A deep cut for a building pad or a utility trench can go 8 to 10 feet, footing trenches a couple feet below frost line, utility trenches to the depth the code calls for. Rock or a high water table can slow a deep dig — we'll tell you what we find when we look.

Question 30

Do you handle the utility locates before digging?

Accepted Answer

We call in the utility locate before we cut any trench for water, sewer, or power. We never dig blind on a line. You should never hire an operator who'll dig without checking — that's how you hit a buried electric or a gas line.

Question 31

Can you move dirt from one part of my property to another?

Accepted Answer

Yes — that's one of the cheapest ways to handle spoil. If you've got a low spot you want filled and a high spot you want cut, we balance the cut and fill and you keep the dirt on site instead of paying to haul it off.

Question 32

What if you hit rock?

Accepted Answer

We stop and tell you. Rock changes the job — it can be ripped out with the machine, it can require a hydraulic breaker, or in the worst case it can mean a change in plan. We don't just keep going and hand you a bigger bill. You'll know what we hit and what it takes before we go further.

Question 33

Do you work on weekends?

Accepted Answer

Our hours are Monday to Friday 8 to 6 and Saturday 8 to 12. We answer the phone during business hours and get back to every message the same working day. We don't work Sundays.

Question 34

How do you prepare a building pad for a new house?

Accepted Answer

We cut to the elevation your plans call for, fill the lows, and compact in lifts so the pad holds a bearing the engineer or the building department will accept. The pad ends up flat, on grade, and firm so the foundation crew has solid ground to work on.

Question 35

What if the site hits rock?

Accepted Answer

Limestone ledge is common on the hills around here. We rip what we can with the machine and bring in a breaker for the rest. Hitting rock changes the job — we stop and tell you what we found and what it adds before we keep going.

Question 36

Do you cut the utility trenches for a new build?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we trench in the water, sewer, electric, and gas lines to the depth and grade the code calls for, before the trades show up. We coordinate with your plumber and electrician so the trenches are ready when they are and the lines go in clean.

Question 37

Do you handle erosion control?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we set the rough grade and the silt fence so the first rain doesn't wash the site into the ditch. Your county may require a permit and an erosion plan for a new build; we'll tell you what we see and what's likely needed.

Question 38

Can you work around my general contractor's schedule?

Accepted Answer

That's how we prefer to work. Tell us when your foundation crew is coming and we'll set the prep to land ahead of them. We coordinate with the other trades on site so the ground is ready when they are.

Question 39

Can you fix a yard that holds water?

Accepted Answer

Yes — that's one of the most common grading jobs. We re-shape the ground so water sheds off the low spot instead of pooling, usually into a grass swale or a ditch. If the problem is a high water table rather than a surface low, that's a different fix and we'll tell you which one you've got.

Question 40

What's a crown and why does my driveway need one?

Accepted Answer

A crown is a slight rise down the center of a drive so water runs off both sides into the ditches instead of running down the middle and washing ruts. Every gravel drive needs one. We set the crown when we grade or resurface a lane.

Question 41

Do you compact the ground after grading?

Accepted Answer

Where it matters — under a building pad, a drive, or a place that'll carry weight — yes, we compact in lifts. For a yard or a rough pasture grade, compaction isn't usually needed and over-compacting clay can hurt drainage. We do what the use calls for.

Question 42

Can you grade around an existing septic or well?

Accepted Answer

Yes, but we're careful with it. Grading over a drain field changes how it drains and can wreck it — we avoid cutting or filling over a field unless you're replacing it. We'll tell you what we see and steer the grade around what's there.

Question 43

What's the difference between rough and finish grade?

Accepted Answer

Rough grade gets the ground close to the right shape and elevation. Finish grade smooths and fine-tunes it for sod, seed, or a surface. We do both and can quote them together or separately.

Question 44

How deep should a water line be trenched in Kansas?

Accepted Answer

Below frost — typically at least 36 inches, often deeper on an exposed run or where the ground freezes hard. Your local code and your plumber set the exact depth for your line. We cut to what's called for.

Question 45

Do you call before you dig for utilities?

Accepted Answer

Always. We call the utility locate before we cut any trench for a buried line. Digging without a locate is how you hit a buried electric or a gas line. If a contractor won't call the locate, don't hire them.

Question 46

Can you trench through rock?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we rip with the machine or bring a hydraulic breaker. Rock slows a trench and changes the job. We stop and tell you what we hit so you know what it adds before we keep going.

Question 47

Do you backfill and compact the trench?

Accepted Answer

Yes — once the line's in and inspected we backfill in lifts and compact, especially under a drive or a pad. We leave the surface shaped so it doesn't settle into a rut later.

Question 48

Will the trench stay open or do you backfill the same day?

Accepted Answer

Where the soil holds and the trench is safe we can leave it open for your plumber to set the line. In loose or wet ground, or where it has to stay open across a drive, we talk through the plan so it doesn't cave or become a hazard.

Question 49

How much rock do I need for my driveway?

Accepted Answer

It depends on length, width, depth, and whether it's new or a resurface. Use the calculator on this page for a rough estimate of cubic yards and tons. For a firm number we come look at the drive and tell you what it actually takes.

Question 50

Why does a gravel driveway need a crown?

Accepted Answer

A crown is a slight rise down the center so water runs off both sides into the ditches. Without it, water runs down the middle of the drive and cuts ruts. Every gravel drive needs one, new or old.

Question 51

What's the difference between base rock and surface rock?

Accepted Answer

Base rock is larger crushed limestone that locks together and sits under the surface — it carries the load. Surface rock is smaller and packs into a smooth top you drive on. A good drive has both. Round river rock doesn't lock and shouldn't be used for a driving surface.

Question 52

How often does a gravel drive need maintenance?

Accepted Answer

Most drives need a re-grade and a fresh surface course every few years to bring the crown back and fill the ruts. A drive with heavy traffic or a soft base may need it sooner. We can set it up right the first time and come back to maintain it.

Question 53

Can you fix a driveway that's turned to mud?

Accepted Answer

Usually yes. If the base has failed we cut out the soft material, re-shape the subgrade, and rebuild from the base up. If the base is sound and it just needs rock and a crown, that's a quicker fix. We look at what's there and tell you which it is.

Question 54

How do I know if my drain tile is failing?

Accepted Answer

The wet spot the tile was supposed to fix comes back — a soggy patch in the field, water against the foundation, a low spot that won't dry. If the tile used to work and doesn't, something failed: a break, a silted line, a plugged outlet. We find it.

Question 55

Can a drain tile be cleaned out instead of replaced?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes — if the pipe is sound and it's just silted or root-clogged, flushing or root cutting can buy you time. If the pipe is clay and full of silt or has collapsed, replacement is the real fix. We diagnose first and tell you which one you've got.

Question 56

How deep is drain tile?

Accepted Answer

Agricultural tile runs a few feet deep across a field. Foundation drain tile sits at the footing. Yard drainage is shallower. The depth and the grade are what make water find the tile and flow out — we set it to the system it's part of.

Question 57

Where does the water go?

Accepted Answer

To a ditch, a creek, or a daylight outlet on the downhill side of the run. If the natural outlet is buried or plugged, the tile backs up and fails — fixing the outlet is often part of the repair. We get the water a place to go.

Question 58

Will fixing the drain tile mess up my field or yard?

Accepted Answer

A tile repair is a trench across whatever the tile runs under. We backfill and shape the surface, and over a field the ground settles back in with a season. A full replacement across a yard means we come back through to level and seed. We leave it as clean as the job allows.

Question 59

How do you keep a cattle waterer from freezing?

Accepted Answer

The line goes below frost and the waterer drains back so the standing water empties into the ground every time the cattle stop drinking. A frost-free hydrant or a drain-back waterer is the setup. A line that holds water above frost will freeze and split.

Question 60

How deep does a livestock water line need to be?

Accepted Answer

Below frost — usually 36 to 42 inches, sometimes deeper on an exposed run. The depth is what keeps the line alive through the winter. We cut to the depth your area and your setup call for.

Question 61

Can you run water out to a pasture across a field?

Accepted Answer

Yes — that's the job. We trench the line out from the well or the rural water tap to the tank, set the waterer, and get water to the cattle. A long run across a field is more trench but it's a straight job.

Question 62

Can you connect to rural water for a livestock tank?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we trench from the rural water district's tap to the waterer and coordinate with the district on the meter and the connection. They have their own specs for the tap; we handle the line and the waterer.

Question 63

What size waterer do I need for my herd?

Accepted Answer

It depends on the number of head and how often they drink. A bigger tank or a higher-flow waterer serves more cattle at once. We can set up one waterer or several along a run depending on the herd size and the pasture layout.

Question 64

Can you clear brush out of a fence line without wrecking the fence?

Accepted Answer

We cut the brush back off the wire carefully and pull the volunteer trees that are growing through it. An old fence may need repairs after — the brush has been pushing on it — but we get the line clean so you can see what the fence needs.

Excavation and septic questions, answered plainly

Septic & Sewer

Earthmoving & Site Work

Agricultural & Rural

Property Services

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